Carnival is the biggest event of the year in the Caribbean! The island of Saint Martin is no different, and we’re lucky enough to get it twice: once on the French side and once on the Dutch side. Unfortunately, I missed all the festivities on the French side, but I did catch a few things on the Dutch side! My friends and I went to the light parade and Ben and I went to the children’s parade. We also went to the apex of Carnival: the grand Carnival parade!
The parade is filled with elaborate costumes of feathers and glitter. The colors swirled around us and music pulsed in our ears, drawing us in to the heartbeat of the festival.
The parade (and most of Carnival, really) is centered around the sensuality of a woman’s body. With so much focus on sensuality, I felt that the appreciation of people for who they are was lost somewhere behind the sequins and paint. Since this is a family-friendly blog, I want to present a different angle on Carnival than the typical. This post is a study on beauty: not the transient beauty of the revealed body, but the authentic, lifelong beauty of humanity. They say that the eye is the window to the soul, so I have decided to focus this photographic undertaking on the beautiful faces of the people in the parade. I hope that as you look at these beautiful faces, you will reflect on the wonderful miracle that is embodied in each person.
“There are no ordinary people. You have never talked to a mere mortal. Nations, cultures, arts, civilizations – these are mortal, and their life is to ours as the life of a gnat. But it is immortals whom we joke with, work with, marry, snub and exploit – immortal horrors or everlasting splendors. This does not mean that we are to be perpetually solemn. We must play. But our merriment must be of that kind (and it is, in fact, the merriest kind) which exists between people who have, from the outset, taken each other seriously – no flippancy, no superiority, no presumption.”
-C.S. Lewis
“So God created human beings in His own image. In His own image He created them, male and female He created them.” -Genesis 1:27
Some of my favorite family memories are the vacations we took when I was in my teens. Make awesome memories with your Teens on Saint Martin when you visit these awesome teen-friendly places! For what to do with kids, visit this page.
Fort Louis
Fort Louis and Fort Amsterdam are two of the island’s oldest structures. Fort Louis was commissioned by the last King of France centuries ago, and still remains one of the French side’s most prominent symbols. Fort Amsterdam stands on a cliff above Philipsburg. It has been used for multiple purposes over the decades and currently serves as a wildlife sanctuary for nesting pelicans.
How to get there: Fort Louis is located in Marigot. You can’t miss it. Park in town and walk up, or take the back road to park near the top of the hill. For Amsterdam is just southwest of Philipsburg. Approach Divi Little Bay Resort from Philipsburg (or use the Sonesta to make a u-turn if coming from Cole Bay) and make a left into Divi’s road. Park before the gate and let the guards know where you’re going. Walk to the far end of the resort until you hit the fort.
Wildlife Watching can be done from any area of the island. See the pelicans diving in the bay, feed the iguanas on Pinel Island, or take a swim to see the fish. Be amazed by both natural and invasive species! You may be surprised what you see. Of course, a wildlife guide is indispensable in this activity. The only Saint Martin wildlife guide was written by Mark Yokoyama, a local nature expert. You can get it here:
How to get there: Go outside!
Cost: Free!
Cul De Sac Hike. This trek is virtually free of human distractions. You can go up through the hills or wrap around the mountain to find stunning views of Anguilla from a rocky coral skeleton beach. Great snorkeling is here, as well.
How to get there: On the northernmost part of the island, take the turnoff to Pinel, go past the school, stay on the road beside the school, and drive until you hit the dump.
Cost: Free!
Tiki Hut is a huge favorite with both locals and tourists. Enjoy a ferry ride through Great Bay, eat good food, and dive into an underwater world. The sunken helicopter is particularly awesome.
How to get there: Go to the cruise terminal in Philipsburg.
Cost: Varies. Contact them for prices.
Guana Bay Hike is another free activity that you don’t want to miss. This hike takes you through the desert side of the island from an abandoned mansion to hidden tide pools.
How to get there: Drive to Guana Bay, but walk to the south of the mountain on the south side of the beach. You’ll see an empty white house and some gardens in a ditch. Take the trail to down and to the right.
Cost: Free!
Snorkling in Cul De Sac is hands-down the best snorkeling in Saint Martin. Suit up in your mask and fins and get ready to see an underwater wonderland! We saw a turtles, rays, lobsters, and thousands of fish. The living coral reef is no less impressive! If you’re up for the swim (and not scared of the drop-off), you can swim to Pinel Island.
How to get there: On the northernmost part of the island, take the turnoff to Pinel, go past the school, stay on the road beside the school, and drive until you find the campground, just past the donkeys.
Cost: Free, or cost of snorkel equipment. Tours also available, like the one linked below.
Pinel Island is a must-do activity for beach lovers. Take the short ferry, paddle board, or kayak over. You’ll be greeted by a pristine beach with dining and even an ice cream boat– but don’t just stay in the sand. The island features an informative nature hike, great snorkeling, three sandy beaches, and hungry iguanas who may just climb right into your bag to find food.
How to get there: Go to the northernmost part of the island and take the round-a-bout toward Pinel. Follow the directions until you find the parking lot.
Cost: $12-$15 for the ferry and up to $40 for a two-person kayak.
Sonesta Resort is an all-inclusive relaxation zone. Adults can enjoy limitless alcohol and teens can sip on virgin pina coladas while relaxing on the beach or at the pool.
How to get there: Located in Maho
Cost: $90 for an adult day pass. About $200/night for a room.
Photo Credit Bianca P
Riu Resort is a blast. This all-inclusive resort is located in Anse Marcel, one of the prettiest bays on the island. Relax by the water, swim in the pool, take a water aerobics class, dance, play volleyball, or sample all the yummy virgin and alcoholic drinks at the pool bar. My personal favorite? The stand-up paddle board in the bay!
How to get there: Take the turnoff to Pinel on the northern side of the island, but turn left at the school and go up into the mountains. It’s quite a drive, so you may want to call for directions first.
Cost: $275+
Stand-Up Paddleboard. You can try this peaceful sport on Galion Beach, Orient Bay, or Anse Marcel. Skim above the water and keep an eye out for sea turtles below you.
How to get there: Orient Bay is on the northwest side of the island; you can’t miss it. Galion is a but further south. Anse Marcel is north of Orient.
Cost: Most places charge $10-$20 per hour for rental. Lessons are around $50 and include rental.
How to get there: Go to Galion Beach or Orient Bay (see directions above).
Cost: $10-$40
Swim to Green Cay for a true adventure. This is not for the faint of heart! Before you try this, be confident in your swimming skills. We took about half an hour to cross from Orient Bay to Green Cay because we couldn’t help but stop and dive to see the giant conch shells and starfish up close. The main drawback for this activity is that the nude beach on Orient Bay is close to the take-off area for the swim.
How to get there: Orient Bay is located on the east side of the island. Green Cay is the closest island to the southern end of the beach.
Cost: Free, or cost of snorkel rental.
Explore the L’Embouchure Cayswhen you’re ready to get away from the crowds. You can sometimes see breaching whales from the platform in the winter. Otherwise, take a minute to learn about the wildlife from the signs on the platform. Then wade or swim out to the cays! You might want to wear water shoes for this; there are a lot of urchins in some places.
How to get there: Drive south of Orient Bay until you come to the turnoff to Oyster Pond. Stop when you see the parking lot and whale-watching platform.
Cost: Free
Watching Airplanes on Maho Beach is the one thing people will ask if you did during your Saint Martin vacation. Get blasted by the takeoff of a 747, or watch the planes land right over your head! This is a good time to break out that selfie stick and get a picture of your family with a jet right above your astonished faces.
Where to go: Maho Beach in Maho
Cost: Free!
Shopping Downtown in Marigot or Philipsburg is a fun way to spend the afternoon. Both have open-air markets on cruise ship days. Philipsburg is pretty dead in the evening or when the cruise ships haven’t come in, so check the schedules before you go. The boardwalk in Philipsburg is particularly fun. You can take photos with the Jack Sparrow statue, get a dollar ice-cream-cone, and enjoy the sun.
How to get there: Philipsburg is on the Dutch side and Marigot is on the French side.
Cost: Whatever you feel like spending.
That Yoda Guy Museum is a unique place that Star Wars fans will enjoy. Walk through the art gallery and museum to see what Nick Maley, one of Yoda’s creators, has done with his creative mind. The highlight? Getting to meet Nick in person on a day he’s inside!
How to get there: Located on the east end of Front Street in Philipsburg.
Roland Richardson Gallery. Make a visit to one of the island’s treasures. Sir Roland Richardson is the descendant of one of Fort Louis’ builders. His family has been here for hundreds of years, and Roland himself is a walking history of the island. Roland’s works of art are oil paintings done around the island. His gallery is an old family house and the back wall of the garden is the French barracks from the time Fort Louis was under construction. If you go on a Thursday between 11:00 and 2:30, you will see the artist at work on a portrait or still life!
How to get there: Rue de Republique in Marigot
Cost: Free!
Haunted Ruins. Ok, so it’s not really haunted (or is it?), but it sure is creepy! Twenty years ago, La Belle Creole resort was one of the Caribbean’s honeymoon spots. Today, it’s the overgrown remnants of ghostly ruins destroyed by a hurricane. Behind the resort is a gorgeous beach and small island nature reserve.
How to get there: Located by Le Sands between Sandy Ground and Les Terres Basses. You’ll see the sign on the north side of the road.
Cost: Free!
Loterie Farm is the perfect place for a family adventure. You can chill by the pool, take a hike to the highest peak (complete with ruins, monkeys, and mysterious gravestones along the way), or zip line on one of the ropes courses. Instagrammers will be delighted by breathtaking views at the top of the tropical forest, and adventurers will beg to zip line from the top or cross international borders on the overgrown rim hike. Tip: spray your shoes with bug spray and you’ll be safe from the ants.
How to get there: Take the turnoff to Pic Paradis after passing through Marigot on your way north.
Cost: 5 Euros for the hike, 25 Euros for the kids’ zip line, 45 Euros and 65 Euros for the medium and extreme zip lines. Pool chair a towel is 25 Euros up, and is required for pool entrance. The park takes US dollars as well.
Surf Lessons can’t be beat when it comes to tropical water sports. The SXM surf club is a favorite with the French kids and expats. I’ve watched them give lessons, and they do an excellent job in both the fun and the safety departments. And don’t worry, there hasn’t been a shark attack on the island in over thirty years! Lessons are 10 am and 2 pm on most days.
How to get there: Go to Galion Beach, which is south of Orient Bay. Walk to the SXM surf club surf shack to ask for a lesson.
Cost: 45 euros for lesson, ferry ride, and board rental.
Horseback Riding anywhere is fun, but throw in breathtaking ocean views and a ride on the beach, and you have a perfect afternoon. Seaside Nature Park offers horse rides along Cole Bay.
How to get there: How to get there: From Maho, go through Simpson Bay to Cole BayTurn right just before Daily Extra Supermarket, and take a left at the end of the road (From Philipsburg, turn left when you come down the hill to Cole Bay Go through the one-way street, turn left, and then go right before Daily Extra Supermarket). You have to drive through the GEBE power plant, which seems odd, but you are going the right way!
Cost: $60/person for an hour ride
Barracuda– don’t eat these!
Fishing is legal everywhere on the Dutch side. Be careful what you eat, though, because most carnivores carry Ciguaterra toxin.
How to get there: Find a beach!
Cost: Cost of fishing pole and supplies (Cost U Less carries poles)
Boat Cruise. There are a lot of boat cruises available on Saint Martin. You can take your pick of island hopping, snorkeling, relaxing, or a combination of the three! Check out Trip Adviser for pricing and locations.
Day trip to Saba, Anguilla or St. Barth’s. If you’re looking for new adventures, try a new island! Each Caribbean island has a unique culture and vibe.
Where to go: Philipsburg for St. Barth’s, Airport Rd. for Saba, Marigot for St. Bath’s and Anguilla.
Cost: Transportation ranges from $42 to $200 round-trip.
I’m not sure if the crazy driving on Saint Martin contributes to the island’s nickname or if it totally destroys it.
To be honest, I don’t often miss the triple-lane freeways of Phoenix, although there are some days that I’d give anything to be flying at 70 miles per hour on an overpass. Saint Martin has one main single-lane road going all the way around the island. A wandering cow in Cole Bay can cause a man commuting from Philipsburg to be late for dinner. It doesn’t help that the driving culture is generally pretty reckless and spontaneous.
Fortunately, you never really get over 40 mph on the entire island, so collisions usually aren’t too serious. And they do happen often! The ordeal of waiting a few hours for officials to show up and do paperwork is not worth it in most cases, so people usually dust themselves off and keep going. I’ve seen a motorcyclist collide at an intersection in front of me and go flying over the top of my hood, pick himself up, climb back on his bike, and zoom off on the center lane while the freshly-dented sports car rolled along on its way.
Standstill traffic is normal, too. I have literally put my car in park in the middle of the street, locked it, taken my dog on a short walk, and come back to my car just in time while waiting for the bridge in Simpson Bay to go down.
My drive today was particularly aggravating, so I switched my brain from “American time” to “island time” and sat back to enjoy the entertainment of the crazy roads.
First, I drove through a construction zone in Maho. Traffic on both sides of the road was at a complete standstill as two people traveling opposite directions had stopped to chat. One lady even got out of her car to walk up to the window of the other driver’s car! We all had to wait a couple minutes as they finished their conversation before we could continue on.
Next, I watched as someone in front of me became impatient with the slow traffic, pulled out into the opposite lane, and drove on the wrong side of the road until he could see the source of the jam and slide back into the right lane. I thought I was going to watch someone die of a head-on collision.
A bus driver stopped in the middle of traffic to pick up a woman who was waiting, but not at a bus stop.
After this, someone went halfway through a round-a-bout backwards to turn into a driveway rather than going all the way around.
Then, someone flashed me and zoomed in front of me so they could do a left-hand turn in front of me, although I was already halfway blocking the turn and nobody was behind me.
Going up a hill, a group of bicyclists were holding up traffic as they slowly pedaled to the top.
At the bottom of the hill, a funeral procession had parked in one of the lanes, totally preventing traffic from going up the hill. A limousine was leading the caravan and has simply parked in front of the cemetery. People in suits were milling around the road as behind them, cars waited at least a quarter mile back. I wanted to roll down my window and suggest to the poor commuters to try a different route home, but I opted instead to turn down my Caribbean jams out of respect for the funeral and leave the drivers to their long wait.
Once in Philipsburg, a bus made an impossible turn through moving traffic as other drivers maneuvered around him. I waved to a little boy I know as he and his mom passed me on the road– walking.
People jumped out into the road to cross it and just assumed we’d all stop for them. And we do.
Everywhere I went, people slowed to wave and call out to each other, bus drivers greeted one another with a honk, and greetings flew from pedestrians to drivers and back.
Like I said, I’m not sure if this craziness proves that the island is friendly or if it proves that it’s not.
I’ve just decided to just stay as safe as possible and accept it for what it is. After all, I’m the foreigner here and I need to adapt. Even if that means driving five miles per hour, watching bikers fly past me on the center line, dodging goats, and smiling all the way!
The best thing about being a teacher is being a grown-up and STILL getting spring break. I’m not in education anymore, but my friend Ally is, and she decided to spend her spring break on the island with me!
Those of you who are also expats know just how wonderful it is to hear from friends back home. You also know that it’s a hundred times more wonderful to have them come visit you!
I spent the days she was here showing her all the best parts of the island. If you have a few days on the island and don’t know what activities to choose, these are the things to do.
We managed to hit seven of Saint Martin’s 37 beaches in four days:
Airplanes at Maho Beach, SXM’s best-known tourist attraction.
We relaxed on Mullet Bay Beach.
Indigo Bay Beach is beautiful. Kito wasn’t too sure about the waves.
We decided to be ‘Mericans and get McDonald’s ice cream at Great Bay Beach in Philipsburg.
Plum Bay Beach had impressive waves the day we went. We tried to get a Little Mermaid-style splash photo…
Dancers
We also went to Kimsha beach and Long Beach for a few minutes, but didn’t stop to take photos.
Naturally, we had to take advantage of the clear water at Mullet Bay and go snorkeling.
We spent some time in both of the island’s capitols, too.
Philipsburg is the Dutch capitol. Jack Sparrow apparently lives there.
Marigot is the French capitol. We visited Roland Richardson’s art gallery, Fort Louis, an open-air market, and my favorite French bakery, Sarafina’s.
Fort Louis with Anguilla in the background
Stacey and I also took her to Fort Amsterdam and Pic Paradis, the highest point on the island.
Of course, the week went far too fast. But it left us with many new friend memories!
No matter how far away you move, some friendships will never feel the distance.
What do you do when you have twelve kids who love trains but have never seen a real one? You take them on a train ride, of course!
The island of Saint Martin doesn’t have a train, but the kids from Player Development SXM know a lot about them anyway. Each day, these boys and girls gather on the little league field to practice for baseball games and improve their academic skills. Many days, my friends and I join them to help with reading and math or coaching.
When practice and homework is done, the kids run inside the repurposed shipping container that serves as their clubhouse to play with their favorite toy: the model train set.
The kids are excited, because this summer, they get to ride a real train. In August, they’ll be packing their bags for the long trip to Toronto, where many dreams will come true. They get to watch a Blue Jays game, see Niagara falls, play against a Canadian little league team, and ride a real train for the first time. For their homework, some of the kids have written about their hopes for the upcoming adventure:
For many of the kids, this will be their first time off the 37 square-mile island.
Many of the kids dream of being a pro ball player, and this will be the first time they get to witness a major-league game.
This is a really big deal for them.
The logo for the team is, of course, a train. Coach Tom asked me to design it for the team, and my friend Andrea made it into a t-shirt for the kids to wear during the trip.
Like it? You can actually buy one for yourself, or send one to one of our kids! All the proceeds of the purchase also go toward the kids’ plane tickets. Make a difference for these kids. Click here!
Who are more important, engineers or artists? My answer: yes.
There are few things as abysmally boring as being stuck in an airport layover in the early hours of the morning. For this reason, I am thankful for airport museums. Currently, I am sitting in the E terminal of the Atlanta airport, following a wonderful hour-long art excursion through each hall.
Ceramic artwork by Sunkoo Yuh
The wandering visitor will find the Atlanta, Georgia airport a wealth of culture. My personal favorite display here is the Ceramix series, which is disbursed throughout the terminal. Click on the photos below for information on each piece.
Jasper Ware Teapots by Eileen Braun. “These pieces were all wheel thrown, altered, stacked with additional hand built elements. The “sprig” leaves are the only molded part of the work.”
Eileen Braun
Ted Saupe’s work tells his personal narrative
John Beadles
Kyungmin Park’s art is inspired by childhood
“Studio Table” by Carolyn Carr.
“In Their Shadow.” Ted Saupe.
Rick Berman
Rick Berman
Rick Berman
Ron Meyers
Rick Berman
Christina West created this to reflect our limited ability to know other people’s interiors.
John Roberts
Georgia folk pottery, Michael and Melvin Crocker
“New Town-New Home.” Mark Errol. Represents the artist’s move from the city to a rural area
“King Snake Jug,” Michael and Melvin Crocker
Georgia folk pottery, Lanier Meaders
“As an immigrant-refugee the statue of liberty is a symbol of hope.” Mario Petrirena.
Robots by Michael Klapthor
There is also a fascinating series on the African-American experience in Georgia. Some things cannot be explained in words; only in art.
I also found a variety of other art displays, ranging from flying vegetables created by (you guessed it) an Iowan artist to what appeared to be African tribal Jedi light sabers.
People to People International’s Global Youth Murals
Student art
Flying corn airplane by Craig Nutt
Anti-Black Market Display
Anti-Poaching Ivory Display
Student art
Quilt to promote green living
I think these are African tribal Jedi light sabers.
Charles David Hubbard
Michael Ehlbeck’s drawing of downtown Atlanta
Student art
The presence of these displays reminded me of a children’s book I flipped through the other day. Frederick by Leo Lionni is about a little mouse who seems to do nothing important. While his friends gather food for the winter, he gathers sunshine and colors. Everyone thinks he’s a little crazy– until winter comes. Then, everyone is sad, hopeless and hungry. Leo gives everyone hope by sharing his sunshine and colors in vivid descriptions of summertime. The message behind the story is that art is important. It sometimes seems entirely impractical, but the reality is that our souls crave art and beauty. Without it, we shrivel up inside.
“Dad of the Day Award” goes to the man teaching his four-year-old to appreciate art
Some of us are naturally gifted to solve math problems, and other of us can create fantastic worlds with a paintbrush. Some of us have the guts to save people from burning buildings, and others of us have the heart to coax forth music from ivory keys. “Let each man pass his days in that endeavor wherein his gift is greatest,” said Propertius. Even if that means inspiring others with giant mosaics made from business cards! This is exactly what John Salvest has done. His Atlanta display is a giant two-panel rendition of Propertius’ quote.
Our culture tends to highly value the sciences. This is good and beneficial for our society, but we cannot forget to also value art. This morning, scientists give me the gift of flight. Artists give me the gift of joy. I thank God for both. Use your gifts, whatever they are!
How to get there: Go outside!
