Category Archives: Expats

Lovers Beach: How to Find It

If you live in or have been to the island of Saint Martin, you have surely heard of the elusive Lovers Beach. The rumor is that the beach is hidden somewhere between Galisbay and Friar’s Bay, and that it’s worth searching for. I am here to put these rumors to rest: they are true. Here is how to find Lovers Beach.


UPDATE: Thanks to a commenter for providing post-Irma information on Lovers Beach. Although the beach is still there, it’s a lot smaller than it used to be. Plan to visit at low tide. 

Why visit this dinky little beach?

There are 37 beaches on Saint Martin. What’s the point of visiting one the size of your bathroom when great, big, beautiful beaches are so much easier to get to? Well, other than achieving the goal of hitting every beach on the island, You should go to Lovers Bay because it is STUNNING. Seriously, it’s a tiny slice of Heaven nestled into the lonely cliffs. You won’t understand until you see it for yourself.


St. Martin Sunset Sail – $40.00

from: Viator

There is a serious lack of info about it this beach on the web. I have yet to find a good description of how to get there, so I thought I’d write one myself to help y’all out. You’re welcome.


How to find Lovers Beach

Drive toward Friar’s Bay. Friar’s Bay is north of Marigot, about halfway to Grand Case. You’ll see this sign at the turnoff on your left:


St Martin Kayak Rental to Pinel Island – $15.00

from: Viator

When you get to the place where the paved road takes a right turn over a bridge, go left. If you go straight, you’ll end up in a rich lady’s front yard, and she’ll think you’re a crazy trespassing tourist. So go left.


Next, take a right. Don’t go up the ridiculously steep hill.


Drive to the end of this path. Here is a place on the seashore where millions of stones make the sound of rain on a tin roof as each wave laps at the shore. Cow paths wind through the forest, and vines with pink flowers wrap every tree, inviting the butterflies to play.

You’ll park here:


Walk to the left until you come to a gate.


Go through the gate and follow the path. It will go through a lot of tall, swishy grass.


If you find yourself here, you’re doing it wrong:


The path is beautiful. I saw a couple flowers that I have never noticed on Saint Martin before, and we saw some massive orange iguanas that don’t look like the usual green iguanas, which are actually an invasive species. I wonder if the orange ones are the indigenous iguanas.


The path turns off to the right a couple times. You can take either way, I think.


Snorkel Tour from St Martin – $54.99

from: Viator


The path will take you through some thick grass. Suddenly, you’ll burst out into the open, where the sky stretches on forever and Anguilla is a green jewel in the endless blue ocean.

Below you, you’ll see it: Lovers Beach! Maybe you’ll cheer ecstatically like I did.


It is as tiny as they say, but it’s also as beautiful as they say. You’ll be so glad you came!


Scramble down the rocks and enjoy the perfect sandy hideaway.


Welcome to paradise.

Remember, this beautiful beach can only stay nice if everyone cleans up after themselves. It’s easy to pick up and pack out your trash. Make sure Lovers Beach stays gorgeous for your kids and grandkids to visit someday.

Christmas Eve Home Run Derby

Christmas on the island once again! This year, We’re doing things a little differently than usual. For Christmas Eve, we spent the day with Player Development Program. Coach Tom and Lisa planned a reunion home run derby for former players and a cookout for everyone. Ben brought his batting arms and I brought my (less terrible than last time but still not awesome) pasta salad, and we celebrated the Christmas holiday with plenty of fun and good food!

The home run derby guys, except for Ben, were all former players of Coach Tom’s. Some are professional players now, and others are on their way there.

Way out in the outfield, the boys on our Little League team had fun wrestling each other and running after balls. They were absolutely ecstatic whenever one of them caught a pop fly!

It’s not every day you get to hit homers while a pro pitches. Here’s Ben hitting with Denzel Richardson pitching. Ben’s never played baseball with actual baseballs before, but it turns out that he’s a natural. He hit a bunch way out into the outfield!

After Coach Tom and I read a few books to the kids, Lisa made the food, and the guys did their home run derby, it was time to eat. Kito was especially thrilled about this part of the day. She sat and guarded the hot dogs while they were on the grill, and performed every trick she knows to get some for herself during lunch! After all the food and running around, she was absolutely pooped. I’ve never seen her so sleepy and well-behaved.

This is the first time I’ve spent a Christmas away from family, which is hard. I’m thankful that we have good friends to spend the holidays with to sweeten the homesickness. It was a wonderful Christmas Eve on the island!

 

Christmas Cookies!

Ok, it’s officially Christmas. We made Christmas cookies! 


I’ll have you know that these were made 100% from scratch INCLUDING the cookie cutters. Actually, the cookie cutters were a total fail. I’m too cheap to buy actual cookie cutters, so I found directions on Instructables to make them from a soda can. This is a fantastic idea, except that I definitely did not do it right. I have no idea how the cookies ended up looking (sort of) like trees and stars.


Other than that, the cookies turned out pretty darn great. R had never made sugar cookies before, but he caught on quickly and even got creative. Check out his emoji cookie!


He wasn’t to keen on decorating them, so he made the frosting and I did the frosting art. We used some powdered drink mix to color and flavor the pink frosting, and it was pretty yummy. I tried to stick with the emoji theme as much as possible.


Despite our lack of red and green and messy edible glittery stuff, this was quite a success for the first cookies of the season. Next weekend, we’ll be attempting gingerbread. If we’re really brave, we’ll even try gingerbread houses! 

Well, that’s it from the Johnson house today. We also went to a Christmas street fair with R’s friends this weekend, which I’ll post about soon.  Merry Christmas!

Stargazing

Island-wide power outages, folks. That’s the way we do life here on Sint Maarten. The power to serve, GEBE? How about “the power to not serve.” “The power to darken an entire island all at once.”

eyes in the dark

It’s become trendy to complain about GEBE and the power problems here on the island, but I actually don’t mind them too much. I guess it’s easy for me to say that since I live in Maho, where we don’t get most of the outages. We’re on the airport grid, and they can’t shut the airport down too often. On Saturday, though, the whole island was down. Black. darkness. No light, except for the occasional building with a generator and one random man rolling down the street on his hooverboard. Despite the darkness, I found a lot to be thankful for.

There wasn’t any point in hanging out inside, and I couldn’t go to bed early since had to go pick up R from his school dance in a couple hours, so I decided to take my dog,  Kito, outside and stargaze for a while. Dang, people, you can see a lot of stars out there when the lights are off! I put down a towel on the grass, lay down on it, and let Kito run around. For all her lack of social graces, Kito is the best fetcher I’ve ever seen. She just drops the ball in my lap, I throw it, and repeat until she drops from exhaustion.

stars in the night sky

Kito and I spent an hour like that. I have an app called SkyView on my phone, which is pretty cool. You hold it up to the sky and it shows you the names of all the celestial bodies and constellations. I really do need to brush up on my Greek mythology, so it was nice to finally take a break from all the usual distractions and just stare at the stars for a while. I could find Cassiopeia and Orion pretty quickly, but I had to re-learn Cygnus, Perseus, and Pisces.

cygnus

After a while, Kito flopped down in the grass beside me. It was so quiet and so dark, just like the rural neighborhood where I lived as a kid. We used to lay out on the trampoline at night, searching out the ancient stories in the sky above. The stars were so bright, just like they were those years ago. It struck me how so much in life changes in such  a few short years, but the stars never change. The sparkling patterns above me were the same ones that the ancient Greeks saw, and even Father Abraham himself tried to count the same glittering specks. Can you imagine how magnificent the stars must look when there is absolutely no artificial light anywhere around? That’s something most of us have never seen that the ancients took for granted. A fiery streak silently sparked through the velvety expanse above. I haven’t seen too many of those in my lifetime, and I felt a sense of being robbed by the ever-present electricity that drowns out the gleam of the night skies.

My musings were cut short by a sudden burst of light. Someone at GEBE had flipped the switch, and the lamp above me suddenly flooded the yard with a warm glow. The magic of the darkness gone, Kito and I packed up and headed upstairs. On the way, I saw TWO centipedes and swore to myself that I’d never lay on the grass at night again. I’m glad I didn’t see those until afterwards, or I would have been sitting on the roof of my car for the whole hour.

tarus

Power outages are no fun, but they really do help you reset your technologically-programmed brain. We’ve only had electric lights for a mere snippet of human history, and people did just fine without them before! I bet they spent a whole lot of time stargazing back then. Like I explained to R later, stargazing was basically antiquity’s version of Netflix. It was the way people used to tell stories, the way we do on a screen now. Sometimes, it’s nice to get back to that. Turn off the modern conveniences and experience entertainment the way our ancestors did.

Here’s a challenge for you: This week, choose a night and stargaze. Download the SkyView app (not a sponsored post, I just think it’s cool) or do your research ahead of time. Learn the stories in the stars, and let your imagination carry you to the top of Mount Olympus. There are so many interesting things to appreciate about the universe– things that even power outages can’t take away.

stargazing
Pin Me!

When I look at your heavens, the work of your fingers,
the moon and the stars, which you have set in place,
what is man that you are mindful of him,
and the son of man that you care for him?

Psalm 8:3-4

First Party of Christmas!

It’s finally that time of year! Time to roll out the wrapping paper, put up the tree, and decorate way too many cookies. To kick on the season right, the Pediatric Interest Group at American University of the Caribbean School of Medicine put on a fantastic Christmas party for some of the kids in our area.

red noses

One of the groups that was invited to the party was Player Development Program, which is the baseball program that I volunteer with. Today, the team had a Little League game before the party,. The dugout was buzzing with happiness during the whole game! The kids were in high spirits as they anticipated the party, and they played with such gusto that they ended up winning nine to seven.
playing games

After the game, we all piled into cars and vans and got ready for the fun ahead. When we arrived, students and their spouses welcomed us with treats and games and loads of fun. The Pediatric Interest Group obviously put a lot into the day, and there was so much to do! The kids sat down for a yummy lunch from Jules and then dug into the pie, cookies, candy, and homemade goodies that the students and spouses brought.

table

When the sugaring up was finished, and when all the kids had received their shiny red Rudolph noses, it was time for crafts and games! Glitter, glitter everywhere. I’m pretty sure we’re all going to leave sparkling footprints behind us for the rest of the week. Too bad fairy dust doesn’t really make you fly. I’m going to think some happy thoughts just in case, though, because you never know.

crafts

There were coloring pages and paper crafts and games galore, but the one I thought was the most fun was the paper snowflake station. I taught the kids how to fold and cut snowflakes. I’m not sure they understood the connection between snowflakes and Christmas (or even snowflakes at all), but they absolutely loved the lacy paper and creativity. We ended up with snowflakes, boats, and paper shapes of all kinds.

paper snowflakes

The kids even got gifts! Jackie, a spouse at the school, and her kids made incredibly adorable presents. The girls got crowns and wands, and the boys got superhero masks and arm bands. Needless to say, they were beyond thrilled!

superhero masks

Just as the glitter glue and paper shreds  threatened to become a magical snowstorm, the party’s hosts took the kids outside to play and run off all the sugar. I helped clean up and waved goodbye to the kids. Thanks, Pediatric Group! We had a wonderful afternoon.

Plantains, Love Languages, and Cross-Cultural Mentoring

Here’s something you never thought you’d hear an American say: I do not actually know that much. It’s no secret that we Americans in the international realm don’t have the greatest reputation for admitting when we need advice or help. Instead, we’re always like, hey, let me come fix your government, your way of life, and your opinions. Don’t worry world, America’s got this.

So how does American arrogance connect to plantains? Read on.

In college, I took several missions classes that taught me a lot about what it looks like to live overseas in a service capacity. A lot of Americans in my generation have sort of a Superman complex when it comes to expat life– we went on a mission trip with our youth group, built an orphanage, and were inspired to go save the world. There is certainly an element of wonderful altruism to this attitude, but it’s missing something: humility.

The most practical class I took in undergrad was called Missions: Aspects and Relationships. The best thing I learned from this class is that in a cross-cultural situation, you shouldn’t come in armed with all the answers. You come in as a learner, asking questions and building trust. You want to convince someone in a African bush that Western remedies can save their kids from malaria? Cool. Start with hanging with them and finding out their way of life, their challenges, and their own solutions. Once they know that you care about who they are culturally and personally, once they see that you respect them, then they are more than willing to listen to what you have to say. Because who wants to take instruction from a random outsider who disrespects you? Plus, you’ll probably end up learning some pretty cool things from people in the process. On a less exotic, more ordinary mentoring level, just finding out about a person and respecting their skills is imperative before you can start offering free advice.

Ok, we’re getting to the plantain part soon, I promise.

plantain slices

Living on the island of Saint Martin, I haven’t really been in the position of doing developmental work or helping with anything like that, other than general things like tutoring kids in reading. Still, I’ve found the “come as a learner” principle to be super helpful even in everyday expat sorts of situations. Like if I’m going to teach a kid from the Dominican Republic how to speak English, I’m going to ask him how to teach me Spanish at the same time. I’ve found the role-reversal to be a helpful confidence booster when it comes to language skills.

So here come the plantains.

R, a teen who we mentor, spends a lot of time at our house, so naturally I do everything I can to make him comfortable and at home. My mom is really good at making people comfortable, and the way she does it is by offering a place to relax while she makes iced tea, cooks a dinner everyone likes, and serves in whatever capacity she can think of. People really appreciate it. Naturally, this is what I try to do, too. I pour glasses of water, I make the dinner, I clean up, I offer dessert (if I remembered to go shopping and get it), I do R’s laundry, even if it’s only a t-shirt, just to offer whatever love and care I can.

Now, if you’ve read the The Five Love Languages book, you’ll be familiar with the idea that everyone is inclined to love in one or two ways of the following: words of affirmation, acts of service, physical touch, quality time, and gifts. To really communicate love, it’s good to show you care on the other person’s terms, and not just your own.

My love language is acts of service. That’s how I communicate love. The more weeks that went by, the more I realized that R’s love language is not acts of service. I could tell he felt a little funny about chilling while I banged around in the kitchen. I thought maybe I’d try offering to teach him to cook, but it turns out he already knows how to do that. This is when I remembered the principle of being a learner.

This is the part about the plantains.

Cooking

I found out that R knows how to cook plantains and fried chicken, and I do not. Rather than be the grown-up who knows everything and takes care of everybody, it was time for me to put on my learning hat and ask for help. And do you know what? It worked out well.

I stopped at the roadside fruit vendor on my way home the next day and picked up some plantains. A few hours later, we had a fabulous dinner that everyone had contributed to. Matt, Ben, and R brought home the fish they caught. I prepared the fish and veggies, and Ben created an African fish sauce. Ray taught me how to cook plantains and made rice. Tati helped clean up made us feel like we had some seriously mad cooking skills. Everybody was happy, and we had a lot of fun in the process.

I learned a few things from making dinner with R: First, I learned how to fry plantains, which is awesome because I only knew how to make plantain chips before, and they’re totally not the same thing. I also learned that in our case, an invitation to help out (quality time) and a “Good job, this tastes great!” (words of affirmation) can be more valuable than acts of service. Finally, I learned that mentoring is not just about giving of myself in the role of an authority figure. It’s also about being willing to step into the role of a learner and show that my mentee’s skills and knowledge are valuable. The process of building a mentoring relationship is a journey, and one that is full of wonderful surprises.

dinner

By the way, are you as clueless about plantains as I was? Stay tuned for a recipe post on how to make Caribbean-style plantains and Tanzanian-style fish! Subscribe or like the 3rd Culture Wife Facebook page so that you don’t miss it.